Today’s visitors to the Velia Archaeological Park in southern Italy use the same entrance as the former inhabitants of the ancient port city did – the southern city gate, Porta Marina. The entrance is dominated by mighty city walls, the oldest sections of which date back to the mid-5th century BC. From there, visitors are guided past past Roman and Greek thermal baths as well as the temple of Asclepius, the god of healing. Next stop is the Porta Rosa, a gate from the 3rd century BC, which was the connection to the northern part of the city. The tour continues to the hill of the Acropolis, where the oldest part of the city was located. Today, a medieval castle thrones over the scene, with a view of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
If you wanted to condense the history of Mediterranean antiquity in one place, the result would look like Velia. Originally founded by the Greeks under the name Elea, later shaped by the Romans, and transformed again in the Middle Ages, the site displays the complexity that characterizes the history of civilization in the Mediterranean region over thousands of years. The history of the excavations and the development of the modern archaeological park in Velia, on the other hand, are closely linked to a country that in ancient times was considered a provincial region at best – Austria.
Since the early 1970s, generations of researchers from the Universities of Innsbruck and Vienna have been systematically studying the ancient city in a total of 50 excavation campaigns, thanks in part to significant support from the Austrian Science Fund (FWF). The name Verena Gassner has been inextricably linked with Velia in recent years. As an associate professor at the Department of Classical Archaeology at the University of Vienna, she became head of excavations and scientific research in Velia in 2002, playing a key role in how we see the ancient city today.
Positive effects for the economy and tourism
The activities of Austrian researchers in Velia over the past half a century are not just important for archaeology: Local scientific institutions have benefited from the opportunity to train young researchers directly at excavations of a city of Greco-Roman antiquity. This has led to international research collaborations the Austrian archaeology community continues to benefit from today. At the same time, the projects in Velia have helped disseminate knowledge about the antique world to a wider public. Among other things, the work of the Austrian archaeologists together with their Italian colleagues supported the achievement of UNESCO World Heritage status and accompanied the development of the modern archaeological park in the 1990s. Today, the southern Italian excavation site attracts around 50,000 visitors a year, creates jobs, and strengthens the local economy.
The odyssey of the Phocaeans
Decades of work by archaeologists have uncovered many details of a story that began over 2,500 years ago. At that time, the Persians expelled the Greek population of the city of Phocaea in Asia Minor. Herodotus reports that their odyssey through the Mediterranean first led them to Corsica. However, after conflicts with the Etruscans and Carthaginians, they soon landed in what is now Campania in southern Italy, where they founded the city of Elea on a bay. The city grew rapidly and was able to assert itself as a local trading hub. At the same time, it was home to important philosophers such as Zeno and Parmenides, who is credited with drafting the “good laws” that enabled the city to emerge victorious from conflicts.
In the 3rd century BC, the Eleates entered into an alliance with Rome, and came to their aid of in the First Punic War. In 88 BC, the city finally became part of the ancient Roman Empire under the name Velia. Given its thermal baths, which date back to both Greek and Roman times, it can plausibly be assumed that Velia became a resort for wealthy Romans during this period. The city’s decline finally began as the harbor silted up, causing the surrounding area to be come swampland. The Middle Ages put their own distinctive stamp on the ancient trading center, fundamentally altering the character of the city.