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Face and Image. Cosmetics and Art, 1500–1800

Face and Image. Cosmetics and Art, 1500–1800

Romana Sammern (ORCID: 0000-0003-3190-075X)
  • Grant DOI 10.55776/V822
  • Funding program Elise Richter
  • Status ongoing
  • Start March 1, 2021
  • End February 28, 2026
  • Funding amount € 274,606

Matching Funds - Salzburg

Disciplines

Other Humanities (10%); Arts (80%); Philosophy, Ethics, Religion (10%)

Keywords

    History, 1400-1800, Painting in literature, Cosmetics, Color, Beauty (Aesthetics), Body

Abstract

The English word painting had been literally associated with makeup since the 14th century: It meant equally the painting of canvas and face with color. Writings on cosmetics equated makeup with painting. Art literature sometimes treated makeup as well. For example, we know that painters such Velzquez (in the 17th century) and Goya (in the 18th century), both from Spain, were also paid to put makeup on women. In such cases, painting and makeup merge. In the project, I investigate the meaning of cosmetics as an art of beautification. To do this, I study images of the face (portraits) and writings about the face and makeup. I analyze the role of cosmetics in writings about the human face as well as pictures of the face: In the arts, in philosophy, in medicine, in science. The project explores how these different fields are connected through cosmetics. Especially in the period from the 16th to the 18th century this question was important: It was then that the modern natural sciences came into being. The modern concepts of the artist and the physician were developed. Because both, women and men used makeup, there was also the question of which profession should be responsible for cosmetics and the beautification of the human face: (male) doctors, female artists or artists. Connected with this was always the question of who can be the author or creator of a painted face: nature, the person who applies makeup on to the face, or the artist who paints a picture of it? In this way, the project also deals with the history of the creation of the modern artwork in the period before 1800.

Research institution(s)
  • Universität Salzburg - 100%
International project participants
  • Robert Brennan, University of Sydney - Australia

Research Output

  • 5 Publications
  • 1 Artistic Creations
  • 6 Scientific Awards
Publications
  • 2025
    Title The Art of Beauty: Zur langen Geschichte von Kunst und Körperpflege; In: The Art of Beauty. 5000 Jahre Schönhei
    Type Book Chapter
    Author Romana Sammern
    Publisher Verlag der Buchhandlung Walther und Franz König
    Pages 10-21
  • 2025
    Title Bianco e Biondo: la cura del corpo nel Rinascimento veneziano; In: Corpi Moderni. La costruzione del corpo nella Venezia del Rinascimento
    Type Book Chapter
    Author Romana Sammern
    Publisher Marsilio
    Pages 226-235
  • 2022
    Title Treating Bodily Impurities: Skin, Art, and Medicine; In: Indecent Bodies in Early Modern Visual Culture
    DOI 10.1017/9789048551774.005
    Type Book Chapter
    Publisher Amsterdam University Press
  • 2022
    Title w. Sport und Wettkampf; In: Körperbilder der Macht in Europa: 1300-1800 - Beiträge zu einer Ikonographie des Politischen in Aktion
    DOI 10.1515/9783422800878-024
    Type Book Chapter
    Publisher De Gruyter
  • 2024
    Title Von der Fleischfarbe zur Hautfarbe
    DOI 10.14361/zwg-2024-890103
    Type Journal Article
    Author Sammern R
    Journal WerkstattGeschichte
    Pages 17-36
Artistic Creations
  • 2025 Link
    Title The Art of Beauty: Zur langen Geschichte von Kunst und Körperpflege
    Type Artistic/Creative Exhibition
    Link Link
Scientific Awards
  • 2024
    Title Postdoc-Grant awarded by the Kunsthistorisches Institut in Florenz - Max-Planck-Institut
    Type Awarded honorary membership, or a fellowship, of a learned society
    Level of Recognition Continental/International
  • 2023
    Title Named Speaker to "Recipes for Early Modern Beauty", Wellcome Collection, London
    Type Personally asked as a key note speaker to a conference
    Level of Recognition Continental/International
  • 2023
    Title Postdoc-Grant awarded by the Kunsthistorisches Institut in Florenz - Max-Planck-Institut
    Type Awarded honorary membership, or a fellowship, of a learned society
    Level of Recognition Continental/International
  • 2022
    Title Named Speaker to Skin, Beauty, and Cosmetics Sektion, Renaissance Society of America (RSA)-Conference
    Type Personally asked as a key note speaker to a conference
    Level of Recognition Continental/International
  • 2022
    Title Named Speaker to Renaissance Skin and Cultures of Beauty Round Table, Renaissance Society of America (RSA)-Conference
    Type Personally asked as a key note speaker to a conference
    Level of Recognition Continental/International
  • 2021
    Title Invitation: Named Speaker to Renaissance Skin Conference, King's College London (Renaissance Beauty Recipes)
    Type Personally asked as a key note speaker to a conference
    Level of Recognition Continental/International

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